“The food is in that sweet spot where fast food is made with thought and excellent ingredients. So the slice of beef tomato in their classic burger (we order ours veggie with the black-bean-and-chickpea patty) is a juicy, gorgeous slab of tomato, not a watery afterthought in there for show. The veggie version of the burger is everything that was promised, firm and tasty, crisp on the outside like meat and lightly spiced to keep it interesting. I get the Dictator – named, presumably, for Kim rather than any of the other hideous options.

It’s two slabs of buttermilk-fried chicken breast in a crisp salt-and-chilli batter, with Korean gochujang mayonnaise as orange as a glass of Fanta. It’s gorgeous, just as good as the Korean chicken burger they’re queuing for in Dublin right now.”